While pruning shears and loppers are the workhorses of the garden, every gardener eventually faces a branch that is simply too large or tough for them to handle.
This is where a pruning saw becomes an essential tool. A good saw makes a clean, precise wound that helps the tree or shrub heal quickly. Choosing the right one can transform a daunting task into a quick, satisfying job that saves you time, effort, and strain.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to select the perfect pruning saw for your needs.
When to Use a Pruning Saw (vs. Pruners or Loppers)
Knowing which tool to grab is the first step to effective pruning. The decision is almost always based on branch diameter.
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Pruning shears. Ideal for small stems and branches up to about 1 inch in diameter.
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Loppers. Their long handles provide leverage to cut branches between 1 and 2 inches thick.
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Pruning saws. Necessary for any branch thicker than 2 inches.
A saw is also the better choice for cutting dead, hard wood, which can damage the blades of pruners and loppers. If you need to make a cut in an awkward or tight spot where you can’t fully open a pair of loppers, the slim profile of a saw blade is the perfect solution.
Types of Pruning Saws Explained
Pruning saws come in various shapes and sizes, each designed for specific tasks.
Understanding these differences is key to picking up the right one.
Curved vs. Straight Blades – Pros & Cons
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Curved blades. These saws are designed to cut aggressively on the pull stroke. The curve helps the blade stay in the cut (kerf) and makes it easier to tackle branches overhead or at odd angles. They are excellent for general-purpose pruning and removing larger limbs quickly.
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Straight blades. These offer more precision and control. They are ideal for making clean, exact cuts, especially in tight spaces or when working on more delicate trees. Straight blades are often preferred for finer work, such as shaping smaller trees or cutting in dense growth.
Folding vs. Fixed Blades – Portability vs. Power
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Folding saws. The blade of a folding saw retracts safely into the handle. They are compact, portable, and easy to carry in a pocket or on a tool belt. These saws are convenient for general garden use and are also ideal for hiking or camping. However, the folding mechanism can be a point of weakness compared to a fixed blade.
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Fixed-blade saws. These saws have longer, more robust blades that are permanently attached to the handle. They are built for power and durability, so they’re the preferred choice for heavy-duty pruning, extensive orchard work, or professional landscaping where cutting speed and strength are essential.
Key Features to Consider Before Buying
Blade Length – Match to Branch Size
A simple rule of thumb is that the saw blade should be longer than the diameter of the branch you are cutting.
A longer blade allows you to use the full length of the teeth in each stroke, clearing sawdust efficiently and cutting faster.
For general gardening, a blade between 6 and 10 inches is very versatile.
Tooth Size / TPI – Fast vs. Clean Cuts
The size and spacing of the teeth, often measured in Teeth Per Inch (TPI), determine the saw’s cutting action.
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Large teeth (Low TPI). Saws with fewer, larger teeth cut very aggressively and quickly. They are great for removing a lot of wood fast but may leave a rougher finish.
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Small teeth (High TPI). Saws with more, smaller teeth produce a much smoother, cleaner cut. The trade-off is that they cut more slowly. These are best for precision work on live, sensitive wood.
Most high-quality pruning saws, including FELCO models, are pull-stroke saws. This means they cut when you pull the saw toward you, which requires less effort and gives you more control than a push-stroke saw.
Best Pruning Saws by Use Case
To make choosing easier, here are our recommendations based on common gardening scenarios.
Best Folding Saw for Everyday Garden Use
For the home gardener who needs a reliable, all-purpose saw, the FELCO 602 folding saw is a smart choice.
It’s safe to store, easy to carry around the garden, and capable of handling most pruning tasks, from overgrown shrubs to small tree limbs.
The impulse-hardened teeth help the blade stay sharp longer, while the soft-touch handle provides a secure grip and steady control during use.
Best Pruning Saw for Thick Branches
When you need to remove large limbs, you need a saw built for power—and the FELCO 630 is designed for exactly that.
Its long, curved blade and aggressive pull-stroke teeth maintain cutting momentum and bite efficiently into thick wood, even when working overhead.
The extended stroke length makes it easier to work through large branches smoothly and with control, so this is the right tool to pick up for demanding tree work.
Best Saw for Orchard or Vineyard Work
Professionals working in orchards or vineyards need a saw that cuts smoothly and stays efficient all day. The FELCO 611 features a low-friction straight blade with hardened teeth for fast cutting and long-lasting sharpness. It produces clean, smooth cuts with minimal effort.
The balanced design and ergonomic handle support steady pruning, while the included sheath keeps the saw close at hand during long work sessions.
Best Saw for Precision Pruning
For detailed work like topiary, training young trees, or working in tight spaces, a straight-bladed saw with fine teeth is the best option. It provides maximum control and produces a very clean finish, which is crucial for the health of ornamental or specimen plants.
For detailed pruning work, control matters most. The FELCO 621 features a straight, tapered blade that allows accurate cuts in tight spaces and between branches. Its fine, hardened teeth deliver clean, precise cuts that support healthy regrowth.
How to Use a Pruning Saw Safely
Before you start cutting, take a moment to study the branch.
Find the branch collar, the slightly swollen area where the branch joins the trunk or a larger limb. Your final cut should sit just outside this collar. Do not cut flush with the trunk.
The branch collar contains tissue that helps the tree close the wound naturally. Removing it can slow recovery and leave the tree more exposed to decay and disease.
Step 1: Plan How the Branch Will Fall
Check the weight and direction of the branch before you begin.
Make sure the area below is clear and that you have stable footing. Keep both hands secure on the saw where the design allows, and work with smooth, controlled strokes.
Let the teeth do the cutting. Forcing the saw can make the blade bind and reduce your control.
Step 2: Use the Three-Cut Method
Large branches should not be removed with a single cut.
As the branch drops, its weight can tear the bark down the trunk and leave a long wound. The three-cut method helps control the break and protects the branch collar.
Start with a shallow undercut on the underside of the branch, around 30 cm from the trunk. Cut roughly halfway through the branch.
Move a few centimetres farther out and make the second cut from the top. Continue until the branch breaks away. The undercut stops the bark from tearing back toward the trunk.
Finish by removing the remaining stub just outside the branch collar.
Tip: do not leave a long stub, but avoid cutting into the collar itself.
Step 3: Keep Your Position Stable
Stand where you can work without stretching or twisting.
Keep a firm grip and make steady strokes. Stop if the branch shifts, the blade becomes trapped, or your footing no longer feels secure.
Never use a pruning saw above shoulder height unless you are using equipment designed for overhead work.
Step 4: Wear Suitable Protection
Wear sturdy gloves to improve your grip and protect your hands from rough bark.
Safety glasses help protect your eyes from sawdust and small pieces of wood.
Before each use, check that the blade is secure and free from visible damage.
Care and Maintenance for Pruning Saws
A clean, well-maintained pruning saw is easier to control and gives a cleaner cut.
After each use, wipe sap, sawdust, and other debris from the blade. Remove sap before it hardens. If necessary, use a suitable solvent or a specialised cleaner such as FELCO 980.
Check the blade regularly for dull, bent, or damaged teeth. Sharpening saw teeth can be difficult, and many high-quality pruning saws are designed with replaceable blades. When the blade becomes worn, replacing it can restore the saw’s cutting performance.
Store the saw in a clean, dry place. Fixed-blade models should be kept in a sheath or scabbard to protect both the teeth and anyone handling the tool.
Genuine replacement blades and other components are available in the FELCO Spare Parts section.
Conclusion
A pruning saw is a powerful addition to any gardener’s toolkit, making short work of branches that are too much for pruners or loppers. By matching the blade type, tooth pattern, and design to your specific tasks, you can ensure every cut is clean and efficient.
Investing in a high-quality, well-maintained saw will pay dividends for the health of your garden and make your pruning work more enjoyable for years to come.
FAQ
When should I use a pruning saw instead of pruners or loppers?
Use a pruning saw for any live branch thicker than 2 inches or for cutting through hard, dead wood of any size that could damage the blades of your pruners or loppers.
What is the difference between a curved and a straight pruning saw?
A curved saw cuts aggressively and is great for general-purpose pruning and removing limbs quickly. A straight saw offers more precision and control, making it better for fine, detailed cuts in tight spaces.
Which pruning saw is best for thick branches?
A fixed-blade saw with a long, curved blade and large, aggressive teeth is best for thick branches. It provides the power and long stroke needed to cut through heavy wood efficiently.
Are folding pruning saws as strong as fixed-blade saws?
While high-quality folding saws are very strong, fixed-blade saws are inherently more robust because there is no hinge mechanism. For the most demanding, heavy-duty work, a fixed blade is superior in power and durability.
What size pruning saw do I need for tree branches?
Choose a saw with a blade length that is longer than the diameter of the branches you plan to cut. This allows for a full, efficient cutting stroke.
How do you safely cut large branches with a pruning saw?
Use the three-cut method: an undercut to prevent tearing, a relief cut to remove the weight of the branch, and a final cut just outside the branch collar to allow the tree to heal properly.
How do you maintain and clean a pruning saw?
After use, clean the blade of sap and dirt with a damp cloth. Apply a light oil afterward to prevent rust, unless you’re using a specialized cleaner such as FELCO 980, which already lubricates and leaves a protective film on the blade. Once clean, store your saw in a dry place.
